Passing Through the World - ALWAYS ON THE WAY
With good news about the pandemic increasing in China while the situation abroad grew ever more severe, I found myself stuck at home, gazing at the boundless spring outside my window, and my thoughts drifted to the matcha town of Uji, southeast of Kyoto.
My original reason for visiting Uji was simple: to taste authentic matcha ice cream.
The journey from Kyoto to Uji takes only about 30 minutes. Using the Keihan Railway Kyoto Sightseeing One-Day Pass, the moment I stepped off the train, I could feel the fresh, clean air of Uji enveloping me.
The sunlight was perfect — bright and crystal-clear, like a pristine small city straight out of a Japanese drama.
Matcha Ice Cream
Crossing the Uji River, you arrive at the Omotesando approach.
This main road connecting Byodoin Temple and Uji Bridge is lined with historic matcha shops dating back to the Muromachi shogunate era, each with its own long story to tell.
At the end of the 12th century, the monk Eisai brought Chinese tea culture to Japan. Uji began cultivating tea in the early 13th century and became Japan's most famous matcha production region. Uji has infused matcha into its very soul — every food and drink can resonate with matcha. For matcha enthusiasts, it's nothing short of paradise.
Of course, the one thing absolutely no one visiting Uji should miss is matcha ice cream!
Though I'd had matcha ice cream many times in Kyoto, the one I bought at Nakamuratoji Byodoin Shop on the Omotesando was the best I'd ever tasted. I realized that everything I'd had before was 'fake' matcha. My travel companion said between bites: 'Let's buy another one on the way back.'
If you're a matcha lover, don't miss Nakamuratoji's main shop. The cafe there may always have a queue, but you can taste their exclusive 'Matcha Pudding Parfait with Ice Cream.' Uji is also home to other century-old matcha shops like Marukyu Koyamaen and Itoh Kyuemon.
Byodoin Temple
Walking to the end of the Omotesando, you reach Byodoin, Japan's famous national treasure. At the ticket counter, I was asked to finish my ice cream before entering. Compared to many temples in Kyoto, Byodoin is large and open. Built in 1052 during the peak of the Fujiwara clan, it was originally the villa of Fujiwara no Michinaga, modified into a temple by his son Yorimichi.
The Phoenix Hall before my eyes was grand yet refined, perfectly symmetrical and majestic — the pinnacle of Tang-style architecture. Completed in 1053, it was modeled after the paradise palace described in Buddhist sutras. The surviving group of 11th-century Buddha statues, including 52 cloud-borne bodhisattvas, is particularly breathtaking.
The temple's garden is a remnant of the Heian period, centered on the Phoenix Hall and Aji Pond, borrowing the clear waters of the Uji River and the mountain scenery beyond — a scene of elegant beauty.
Here, you can capture Uji's rich history at every turn.
Uji River
Leaving Byodoin, I followed a small path to the banks of the Uji River. The murmuring water sounded just like the river behind my grandmother's house when I was a child. Walking to Tachibana Island in the middle of the river park, then crossing the Asagiri Bridge, I found myself facing Uji Shrine.
But rather than visiting the shrine, we were drawn to the beautiful sound of flowing water. We turned aside, descended the stone steps, and half-reclined on the gentle slope of the riverbank, letting the warm afternoon sun wash over us. Eyes closed, perfectly content. Minutes ticked by, and I wished time could stop forever. Only when the sun shifted westward and a chill crept in did we finally rise to leave.
Uji actually has another autumn foliage spot, Kosho-ji Temple. But after three days of maple viewing in Kyoto, we had a bit of visual fatigue and decided to skip it. Instead, we strolled slowly through the small lanes, savoring a tranquility distinct from ancient Kyoto — a calming, reassuring kind of quiet. Uji also has a Tale of Genji Museum for those interested in literature.
Uji is small enough to explore in a single day, yet it brims with surprises at every corner. It's a place that, once visited, lingers in your memory.
Practical Tips: Transportation Pass
For getting from Kyoto to Uji, I highly recommend the Keihan Railway. The Keihan Railway Kyoto Sightseeing One-Day Pass is incredibly useful and I can't recommend it enough. Its coverage spans from Demachiyanagi in northeastern Kyoto to Uji in the southeast, passing through the autumn foliage hotspot Tofuku-ji Temple and the famous Fushimi Inari Taisha Shrine.
Recommended purchase location: Kansai International Airport Tourist Information Center (limit one per passport)
More sales locations available at: https://www.keihan.co.jp/travel/tw/tickets/special/kyoto-osaka
With this one-day pass, besides visiting Uji, if you have energy to spare, you can also visit Tofuku-ji Temple and Fushimi Inari Taisha Shrine — both are must-see Kyoto attractions.
About Tofuku-ji Temple: Many say that visiting Kyoto for autumn leaves without seeing Tofuku-ji is meaningless. The temple's maples are indeed famous. Each late autumn, over 2,000 maple trees turn the entire temple red. Though beautiful, the crowds can somewhat detract from the contemplative experience.
About Fushimi Inari Taisha: Consistently ranked as one of Kyoto's top must-visit attractions. The shrine is filled with various fox statues, but the most famous feature is the Senbon Torii — thousands of vermilion torii gates densely packed together, spectacular when sunlight filters through. Walking among them feels like stepping into another world.
